Days 105-106 Puno & the Floating Uros Islands

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Lake titicaca

We weren’t too impressed with Copacabana so how about it’s Peruvian twin, Puno? Unfortunately Puno was also hit with the ugly stick. It’s not a pretty town neither is it very safe. Tourists are advised not to walk to the shore at any time and tours are provided transport from their hotels to the dock to avoid issues between the town and the lake.

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Transport in Puno

Our first impression of Peru was a disorganised one thanks to the confusing border crossing. We didn’t have to change buses but at the border we get off, stamp in, then are left to find the Peruvian border. Then we realised our bus was still in Bolivia. Do we go back or wait for it in Peru? We hang around a money changer looking clueless until we realise the bus comes to us.

Puno isn’t that bad. It’s just a small chaotic town filled with pizza restaurants and a lot of tourists! We swiftly booked a tour for the next morning…

Uros Islands

Our day trip was to two sports: the Floating ‘Uros’ islands and Taquille island

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The Uros islands are fascinating. There are over 80 of these made from the reeds that grow
In the lake. There is an entire community living on these islands who live off fishing and selling their textiles to tourists.

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Our boat dropped us off at one island that had a family home, a small classroom and a small ‘museum’ displaying different animals made from reeds.

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Reed swing set

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The family (plus a puppy) showed us how they made the island and treated us to some traditional songs. The women wear bright skirts of pinks greens and oranges and have woven designs in similar colours.

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Traditional Uros dress

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Then we took a beautiful reed boat to the ‘central’ island which had a sort of village hall and craft stalls.

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How to ‘drive’

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Oarsman in training!

imageIt was cool to see how simple a life one can have. Everyone living there was really welcoming and happy. A cynic would say that’s because they have tourists like us visiting every day buying their stuff. That may be so but when you think about how long their traditions have been going (pre-dating the Pyramids) and the fact it’s still thriving it is really impressive.

Taquille Island

Another boat ride and we are taken Taquille island. Like Isla Del Sol we were dropped off at one side and needed to walk across the island. Unlike Isla del Sol, it was not a very long walk.
We also hadn’t realised how acclimatised to the altitude we had become, until we saw others from the group struggling to walk up the hill we found easy to stride!
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Taquille island has very different but equally interesting traditions. It is only the men that knit (the women weave) and they start learning how from the age of 6. The artefacts they knit are beautiful with intricate designs. It didn’t take much persuasion therefore for us to buy some soft alpaca wool hats!

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imageIn the main square there is a 3-storey building full of the wares from these male knitters. Each family takes it in turn to sell their stuff there so all the prices are fixed to make it fair. (Their version of fair trade)

We also bought a traditional cumberband with the Incan calendar woven in to it. These are worn once a man is married and woven by their wives. The back side of the band is thick and tough so that it can aid carrying heavy weights. Each one is unique because in to this strong belt his wife weaves in strands of her hair! It is also a UNESCO protected garment. image

As well as the cumberband the men also wear hats with big Pom poms on the end. The hats are designed to look like the flower of Peru, the cantuta.
If he is married the hat will be fully patterned, and single men wear all red hats, so it’s easy to tell! The single women wear larger Pom poms on the ends of their plaits than married women. If only every culture had a similar system.
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At lunch we also got our first taste if Inca Kola. It’s a fluorescent yellow drink that tastes like Irn Bru (but not as good) At first I thought ‘great! An anti-coca cola!’ But then realised that coca-cola produces it!

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On our walk down the other side of the island we were treated to some more great views of titicaca.

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To end the day we went to a restaurant that served the traditional Peruvian dish, Cuy (aka ginea pig) It didn’t have much meat on it but was tasty all the same.
So despite our first impressions Puno wasn’t as bad as we first thought it to be.

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Top Tips:

1) There are loads of tourist offices selling Uros Island tours. Prices range massively between them so be sure to check what type of boat is taking you as some are slower than others. Also negotiate the lunch in your price!

2) Take your passport! At the central island on Uros they stamp it for you!

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